Ten Years of Urban Sketching

I rediscovered the joy of drawing in 2015 out of a necessity when I was captivated by the beauty of the altar piece in the Basilica at El Escorial in Spain.  Later that year, I found the NYC Urban Sketchers and joined their first outing in 2016 at the Hispanic Society of America.  On January 3, 2016, I attended my very first workshop with Hugo Costa in Jersey City and after we did the hands-on demo application part of the workshop, I asked Hugo to sign my sketchbook.  Yes, that's his note on the upper right corner of this sketch.

Fast forward to January 10, 2026 where I joined another NYC USk sketch meet at Industry City in Brooklyn.  It turned cold and rainy that day but urban sketchers will always find something to sketch no matter the weather condition.  Together with my other friends - Joanne, Suzala, and Melanie, we all sketched in one little corner of a dining space at the Japanese Village.   Guess who I also saw there?  Hugo Costa! Hugo later joined our table before we proceeded to the show and tell part of the day.

The ramen dining area and what I saw that morning.

After the Pilgrimage Walk

Sunday, May 4, 2025:

Hannah & Brian, David, and I took the 6:00pm tour of cathedral rooftop that same day we arrived in Santiago.  They had an extra ticket from a friend who couldn't use it so they offered it to me.  There were twelve of us in the group and the guide spoke fluently in both English & Spanish languages.  It was also the last tour of the day.  Past the steep upstairs climb, we were rewarded with incredible views of the city from the rooftop.  I did some small sketches (small motif) that I can finish in a very short time.  Good for  training for the hand-eye coordination.

After the tour, I suggested to have dinner at this Asian Restaurant I've tried the year before when I did my first Camino walk.  Glad that they enjoyed the food selections.  I very much enjoyed my ramen soup especially on that cool evening.  Afterward, we explored parts of the city in a post-dinner walk only to emerge in a busy street with various little shops including an ice cream store.  We each had some ice cream to satisfy our hunger for a "postre" that night 

Our casual walk back in the direction toward the main square was later interrupted by the merry sound of music.  Apparently, there was a free concert being held in one of the covered portico near the square and the crowds loved it.  We joined in the gathering and even danced and sang with them.  Of course, I had to do a sketch of the "Tuna de Derecho Santiago de Compostela" group which I later showed to the band members, Jose Luis and Suso.   It was so much fun but it was also getting late in the night plus we were also tired.  We needed our rest so we all said our last goodbye.

Monday, May 5, 2025:

Cinco de Mayo.  After Anne and I finished the Camino Frances from Sarria the year before, we discovered the Cafeteria Paradiso where they have interesting period style motif and collections in the shop.   I went back in there and had my breakfast.  I recognized the family running the business.  Pablo, the son, works the tables while the mother makes the good coffee and chocolate drink.  Agustin, the father, also worked in the kitchen and the counter.  I stayed there for a little to sketch which I later showed to Agustin.  He was just as happy to offer me their "sello" stamp and he even signed my sketch with his name!

Not too far from this cafeteria was the place where I would later meet with Marta at 11:00am.  She and I became FB friends during the early part of the pandemic when the NYC USk group was doing the virtual sketch meet.  Through another friend of ours on FB, we reconnected and decided to meet for the day.  She also brought along two of her friends from USKoruna - Lupe and Bea.  They took me to the nice but less known spots in the city that only a local would know.  It was fun filled day them and we also made sure to do our little throw-down.

Tuesday, May 6, 2025:

I got up early before sunrise to sketch in the "Mercado de Abastos" food market before it got too busy.  The shop owners were just starting to setup but I managed to do a few sketches of the greens market managed by Emma and Carmen, and at the fresh fish market.  I sketched some "merlusa", octopus, and salmon fillet.

The train trip back to Madrid was early Wednesday morning so I made sure to know exactly where the AVE train station was.  Surprisingly, the route to get there from the hotel was easy.  For the rest of the day, I sketched a baroque church and attended the mass inside the cathedral.  Fortunately, they swung the "butafumeiro" during the mass so I was able to experience it again one more time.  

It was nice to have those two extra days spent in Santiago.  I would have liked it to visit Mom in Asturias but not possible this time due to conflict in schedule.  Perhaps another time.

  

Via de la Plata - My second Camino: Day 9

Overnight, the rain let up and we woke up to a fresh morning sunrise.  Everyone in the dormitory room was up and about by 6:00am.  All the things we own must be put away again in our backpack before the 7:30am breakfast time at the next door cafe.  Remember the four Spaniards I met the day before?  I saw them at the breakfast table.  They must have started their day walk earlier somewhere and made a coffee stop at this bar, too!  This was a Sunday so it could be a bit challenging to get the required two "sellos" (stamps) for the day.  I figured a bar cafeteria or two would be open along the way.  Having walked more than 10-11 kms distance before, the last 10 wouldn't be a problem anymore.  At 8:10am that morning, I was on my way to Santiago.

One last look at Albergue Reina Lupa before heading out on the trail.  That small white building on the right was our dormitory, the middle structure was the bar cafeteria restaurant. 

One hour into the walk, after passing through some of the magnificent views of the countryside, I felt the need to change my footwear from hiking boots to sandals.  This to prevent a hotspot from developing into a full blown blister.  Some curious and nice peregrinos like Boba, from Taiwan, whom I met the day before at the grocery asked if everything was okay.  She was fascinated by the mint sprig I've carried with me on my sunhat lanyard.  She asked if ok to take a picture of me because of that.  I like to sniff the fresh mint smell during the walk and from time to time.

Changing my footwear proved to be a much better option at that time.  My feet started feeling better in wool socks and sandals.  As I got closer to the destination, the views started changing, too.  The vast rural scene has been supplanted with signs of civilization.  Many housing structures now dotted the countryside.

The sign of civilization and the realization that the pilgrimage walk is coming to a close.  That was John and Katy at the farthest end of the road.

Like I said earlier, it was a Sunday, but somewhere down the route, we heard fireworks going off in the distance.  I recall from previous Spain visits that sounds like that could be from some kind of a town fiesta celebration at this time of the year.  Indeed, it was the San Cristovo do Eixo town fiesta.  I saw the spot where the town people were gathering.  Most of them in best Sunday attire, especially the older ones.  It was near the small chapel where the festivities was being held.  I couldn't pass up the moment without sketching the scene.  After a quick sketch, I went over to the tent where the local organizers were gathered, asked if they have a "sello" to stamp my sketchbook.  Happy to note their names - Agustin, Marla, Sara and Natalia as they made it on my sketchbook.  They were delighted to see it. They even offered me free churros and cafe!  Such generosity and hospitality.  Eventually, they found their event stamp so I got one on my pilgrim passport and on my sketchbook.

I was almost sure to bypass the small church filled with townspeople but I decided to stop and take a peek inside.  Slowly I moved my way toward the church.  And then it hit me.  I saw the name "Capilla Sta. Lucia, 63" etched in stone on the facade of the church.  I felt a sudden jolt.  I almost froze with what I saw.  It was then I realized that somehow my late sister was with me the whole time I was walking the Camino!  Lucille was born in 1963.  Perhaps it was her way of making me aware of her presence.  I was overcome with emotions.  Here I was almost at the end of my walk and questioning why it felt differently than the Camino Frances I walked from the year before.  On the last day of that walk, I unexpectedly came upon the Iglesia de Sta. Lucia in Lavacolla which really surprised me and touched me.  And now, six months later, on the last day of walk, I was again touched and surprised by this coincidence.  Both unforgettable moments in my Camino experience.  I entered the church, bought a candle, lit it up and said some prayers before leaving the church.  As I walked away from this place, my sadness was slowly lifted with gladness and gratefulness for everything that happened. 

Nearing Santiago, I followed the arrow signs to "Cafe Bar Los Cruces, Aixo Santa Lucia" for a cafe con leche and also obtain the second sello mark of the day.   I made a quick sketch of the bar counter and had a name, Javier, added to my sketch.

 

The nearer I got to Santiago, the more prominent the yellow arrow and shell signs can be seen.  I slowly started feeling the joy of accomplishment. From a distance, I could see the church's twin towers.  

I don't know how many different churches were built around the city but I came upon one older church where I was captivated by its architecture.  I had to sketch it, and in the process, collected another passport stamp from the church office that day. 

They say that the view to approach to the city from this route is the best so I was thankful to see it for myself.  I agree that it was scenic, dramatic, and beautiful alright.

After six days and five nights on the Via de la Plata pilgrimage walk from Ourense, I happily made it to Santiago de Compostela with raised fists in jubilation.

A few side notes after this picture was taken:  I went to the pilgrim's office to obtain my Camino certificate before coming back to this spot to sketch the view.  I still had two hours to kill before I could check in my hotel.  Two Japanese boys, Wataru and Aturu, became interested in my sketching.  I found out that one of them also likes to draw.  Both have walked the Camino with their father, Tatsuru, and must have also finished the walk same day I did.  How funny that I also stumbled upon Stephan nearby and we happily hugged each other for a celebration.  He saw Hannah, Brian and David at the pilgrim's office earlier and also asked about me.  Although I didn't see them, I would later join them for the rooftops tour of the cathedral.  Earlier, I ran ito Paco at the entrance to the square.  We too hugged each other in joyful celebration.  Everything feels good.  Best of all, it didn't rain, the sun was up, and it was just pure wonderful feeling that I finished walking the Via dela Plata route to Santiago de Compostela. 

Via de la Plata - My second Camino: Day 8

Less sleep again the night before and it was still dark outside at around 6:00am.  I slipped out of the dormitory room and into the adjacent cafe bar room where we had the community dinner.  On the visitor's logbook, I also sketched a view of the main house next door in my sketchbook.  Rafaelle and Matilda soon came out and started packing their things on their way to Santiago.  

The sketch I made on the visitor's logbook. 

My daughter's fanny pack has been with me on this journey, the same way it provided Marie her companion for the entire Camino Frances from SJPP in 2019.  To honor that, I took a picture of her fanny pack in front of the Albergue de Casa Leiras.

The modern cottage where the guests stay.

A sketch of the main house driveway and the note from Cristina.

At 9:30am, I left the albergue so I can make time to sketch the parish church a short distance away.  Soon, my new friends on the Camino caught up with me and moved on.  I encountered these other peregrinos as I was sketching the church and we managed to get some pictures taken later on the trail.

I found myself contemplating on how different this experience was compared to my first Camino walk last year.  There seem to be more people walking on the trail now at this stage compared to the mostly solitary walk when I started in Ourense.  Perhaps due to another route converging with this one on the way to Santiago.

A little more than an hour after leaving Casa Leiras, I detoured to a short driveway leading to a most peaceful sanctuary called Finca Anduriñas, a donativo run by Pilar, Belen and their lovely small dog named Boi.  She offered me a nice cup of coffee and some home made jelly over a fresh baked bread.  I was captivated by the beauty of the place and the many interesting artifacts on display in one part of the building.  I had to sketch the place!

And then it was time to walk again to the next destination at Albergue Reina Lupa, Deseiro, passing through some beautiful mountain views and descending the lush valley leading down to the town of Ponte Ulla.  The town supermarket was near the trail so I picked up some bananas, yogurt, and Aquarius drink.  At this point, I was still 10 kms away from the next albergue but I needed to stop for lunch.  I took the opportunity to make a short call to my mom to catch up a little bit about my journey.

Note:  The paragraphs above this text was last written on July 4, 2025.  It is now Jan 8, 2026 and I'm continuing to write about the thoughts of my experience from last spring.

After lunch, it was time to get moving again in the direction toward Santiago.  There was a moment where all of a sudden I got emotional for no reason at all.  Perhaps it was just about the whole experience where I had the time to reflect inward.  Soon this trip will be over.

I recall a hillside section of the trail where I could see the developing storm in the distance and the shower curtain that followed soon after.  It was a cinematic sight to see. 

An hour and half later, I reached the Albergue Reina Lupa in Deseiro, feeling exhausted and relieved that I can rest for the night.  I think I was the last person to arrive with a reservation at this albergue so I get the upper bunk bed.  Funny, here I met the same group of Portuguese pilgrims I first saw at Albergue de Peregrinos Oseira.  I also saw John & Katie from UK whom I first met at a coffee bar in Dozon, Pontevedra two days earlier.  

Time to pick up where I left off

It's funny that the last entry I made here on this blog was from last spring.  How could that be?  I realize I needed to come back to making entries here again. 

Was I too hung up on what to write of the rest of the Camino trip?  I don't know.  Mayber.  Now, I vaguely remember the everyday details that happened then after day 7.

The other night, I opened the little sketchbook I carried with me on that trip and fresh memories came at each page entry I looked at.  Perhaps that would be the tool to help me remember the events.

I think I should finish the rest of the stories of that trip....Yes, that would be the goal for now.  

I'll try my best.

Via de la Plata - My second Camino: Day 7

Fran & Bea planned on a 6:30am departure Friday morning but got delayed by a passing thunderstorm. I had been awake since 3:00am because of some "emergency" (non-emergency) call I got from Anne. The water sprinkler valves directly above my car space at the apartment needed to be repaired.  Problem was my car wouldn't start.  Dead battery I was told and will need a service assistance for that.  I couldn't make sense of that because it was running ok before I left for this trip.  Anyway, a long story and another night of sleep deprivation.

At 6:00am, people started stirring and moving around the dormitory.  All gearing up for the foul weather.  At 7:30am, I decided to put on my backpack and don the poncho I borrowed from my daughter.   She lent me the one she used when she did the Camino Frances from SJPP for 5 weeks back in 2019.  Now it was my turn to put it to good use.  It steadily rained, heavy at times, but the more I walked in the rain, the more I find pleasure rather than misery in it.  Perhaps it was dejavu.  It was the same feeling I recall when walking in the rain in my boyhood years.  Or was it just the fun memories of walking in the rain as a young child?   Idk.

The rain eventually let up.  About two hours later, I arrived at the old Roman Bridge at Ponte Taboada.  I know I wanted to sketch this old bridge even if it was raining.  I don't know how long I sketched there but others like Fran & Bea soon showed up at the spot and our paths crossed again.

The Ponte Taboada Roman Bridge.

Some more uphill/downhill hikes on this trail and with less service infrastructure in between towns compared to the more popular Camino Frances route.  However, the lush greens views all over and the sound of silence was actually something I enjoyed.  

Old oak forest. 

At Silleda around 11:00am, the sun came out and I got my first cafe con leche that day and paired it with jamon tostadas and pastries for breakfast.  I still had about 14 kms left before the next stop at the highly rated Albergue Casa Leiras in Dornelas.  Silleda is a city where I found a supermarket where I bought some bread, cheese and jamon for a nice bocadillo sandwich.   In exiting out this city and going back on the trail, I failed to notice the yellow arrow marker at the immediate right in one corner of the street.  Suffice it to say, I got lost a bit but backtracked my way just enough to get back on the trail.

Later on I noticed some mint growing by the trail so I plucked a cutting that I carried with me.  It was handy to smell the mint when the foul smell of livestock fill the air in some sections of the trail.  The sky was turning more grey and ominous looking clouds were forming.

Mint leaves for a refreshing smell.

A sketch of a stone house ruins while I was on a lunch break.

I was fortunate to reach a quiet roadway tunnel to shelter from the quick passing storm.  My friends Hannah & Brian, and Dave soon arrived at the tunnel and we all waited out the storm.  Good thing we all have booked reservations at the highly rated Casa Leiras so we just all walked together until we arrived at the destination at 5:20 pm.

This was a private albergue with limited number of beds.  I had a confirmed reservation two days before I got there.  Aside from the three friends I walked with, three other guests were checked in.  Rafaelle and Matilda (from Italy) and Stephen (from Germany).  We all shared the community dinner and had the most fun conversation over some delicious Italian pasta, salad, pizza and wine.  It was a great ending to another long day of walk.  I know the end of this Camino is fast approaching.

Wonderful dinner 

The few guests for the community dinner.

I created an entry in Casa Leiras' logbook that was filled with other notes and some drawings made by other guests who had also stayed at this albergue.  

Cristina and Stephen conversing while I discreetly sketched them.